Should fashion retailers be held accountable for microfibre release? Yes, they should.

Article by Lily Deng

Introduction

Every time we wash our clothes, we releasehundreds of thousands of invisible microplastic fibers into the environment (Dethmers, Spek, and Kraaijeveld, 2022, p. 5). With the dominance of synthetic fabrics in fashion, particularly fast fashion, the release of microfibres has become a public health and environmental concern. In this blog, I'll explore why fashion retailers should be held accountable for microfibre release due to their central role in production decisions, environmental impact, and emerging health risks.


Microfibre Pollution is Irreversible

Recent statistics show the scale of microfibre pollution from fashion, particularly fast fashion, is unfathomably large. A single garment can release 700,000 microfibers per wash (2022, p. 10) and dryers emit 120 million per year (2022, p. 13).. Considering that 100 billion garments are produced annually, most of which are intended for short-term use, and over 75% of global garments are made of synthetic fibres (2022, p. 5), it is undeniably true that we need to take action now to reduce the production of synthetic fibres.  Microplastics have now been found in some of the most remote and pristine environments on Earth, including Arctic snow, Alpine peaks, (2022, p. 9) and deep-sea sediments (2022, p. 6). What's more alarming is that microfibres dominate the microplastic content in the air we breathe, the soil we grow food in, and the water we drink. Unlike natural fibres, they don’t break down. They accumulate in our air, our water, our food and ultimately, our bodies. In this context, remediation isn’t a realistic solution. Prevention at the source is the only truly effective strategy. 


Simply put, more production leads to more environmental contamination. Fashion brands knowingly use low-quality synthetics that shed profusely and are designed for disposability, not longevity. This is exactly why fashion retailers, as upstream contributors, must be seen as primary mitigators. They control the design, material choices, and manufacturing methods that determine how much shedding occurs. Holding them accountable is not just fair, it's essential for our health, our environment, our future.


Health Impacts

Human health risks observed from microfibres include: correlation with lung cancer, as microplastic fibres have been found in 97% of lung cancer tissue samples, lung inflammation, reduced lung capacity, asthma, diabetes and cancer in general (2022, pp. 14-15). Adults have been found to ingest up to 52,000 particles per year through food and water, linked to IBD (Crohn's disease, ulcerative colitis) 2022, p. 17) and children ingest 12x more particles than adults (2022, p. 19). The research speaks for itself to the severity of the health impacts from microfibre ingestion and inhalation. These impacts alone should be enough to justify the regulation of their production on a par with tobacco and fast food industries, whom both of which are held liable for health consequences. However, the majority of us are not aware of these risks when purchasing a new garment. It is only fair that customers are informed and understand the risks posed by the clothing they buy. This needs to be enforced on supply chains.


Holding Fashion Retailers Accountable 

Yes, we can make better choices. But this is a systemic issue that goes far beyond individual behaviour. Brands have the data. They know how much shedding happens during the production and use of synthetic clothing. They know what additives and treatments go into their garments. They know microfibres are nearly impossible to remove from wastewater. So why isn’t the industry doing more to stop it? Garments should be tested for microfibre shedding before they reach stores. Filters should be standard in washing machines. Brands should be taxed on virgin plastic use and required to disclose shedding levels on product labels so we know what we’re buying and the risks that come with it. And above all, we need to move away from fast fashion as a business model. The endless churn of cheap, synthetic clothing is simply not compatible with a healthy planet or population.


Conclusion

  • Microfibres from clothing pose growing threats to health and ecosystems.

  • Fashion retailers are not passive participants but active designers of an unsustainable, harmful system.

  • Accountability must be enforced through policy, innovation, and ethical responsibility because prevention is still possible.


We’ve seen what happens when harmful industries are left to self-regulate: delays, greenwashing, and a prioritisation of profit over people and planet. If fast food and tobacco industries are held to account for the health consequences of their products, then so should fashion retailers. It’s no longer just an environmental issue. It’s a public health one. That's why regulation matters. We need systemic change, not just better marketing.


Dr Kiki Dethmers, Harmen Spek, and Bentelise Kraaijeveld (2022) Do clothes make us sick? Fashion, fibres and human health. Amsterdam: Plastic Soup Foundation. Available online at www.plasticsoupfoundation.org/plasticfashion  (Accessed: 6 August 2025)